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All Anglepoise lamps are designed and tested as Class II or double insulated electrical appliances, which means they have been designed in such a way that they do not require a safety connection to electrical earth (ground).
The basic legal requirement is that no single failure can result in dangerous voltage becoming exposed so that it might cause an electric shock and that this is achieved without relying on an earthed metal casing. This is achieved by having two layers of insulating material surrounding live parts or by using reinforced insulation. Hence the outer material can be metal as the risk of becoming live is negligible (many household products are similar).
All Anglepoise lamps bear the double insulation symbol (a square inside another square).
References: Directive 2006/95/EC - Harmonisation of the laws of Member States relating to electrical equipment designed for use within certain voltage limits; IEC 61140: Protection against electric shock — Common aspects for installation and equipment. 2001; BS 2754 : 1976 (1999): Memorandum. Construction of electrical equipment for protection against electric shock.... Read more
A page to help you identify your vintage Anglepoise® lamp.
- Features a tall casted base painted black
- Two thin steel strips for side arms
- Other arms made of aluminium.
- Simple springs, without any cap detailing
Model 1208 (1933)
- Has a short casted base
- On many of these the side arms are made of tubing rather than a thin metal strip.
- The metal used on the arms ranged from Brass, steel to aluminium depending on the availability of the metal at the time.
- The shade is slightly larger than the prototype.
Model 1227 (1935)
- Features a solid three tiered base that was painted.
- The fork is separated into different components and the centre block was often chrome plated.
- The fork block says ‘The Anglepoise – Made by Herbert Terry & Sons’ on the front
- There is an earthing point on the back of the fork block.
- Two spring bars were used, the one for the centre spring being higher. They could also be adjusted with the different holes in the sides of the fork, to change the spring tension.
- The arms tended to be made of steel and were quite a sharp square section in profile.
- There was an adjuster knob half way up the back arms.
- The shade has quite a thin profile with two distinct shapes to it. There are perforated holes in the side of the top of the shade for cooling, and also on top of the shade next to the Crabtree switch.
Model 1227 (1938)
- Has a two tier base, with a steel cover.
- The forks were mainly casted as a whole component with ‘The Anglepoise
- Made by Herbert Terry & Sons’ casted into the fork.
- The springs often had metal caps added so that the spring length could be adjusted changing the spring tension.
- Slightly later models moved from steel linkage strips and spacers at the bottom to nylon ones.
- The shade become wider without any air vents on the side but larger ones on the top of the shade. Earlier models had the shade rolled outwards at the bottom of the shade, whereas later models were often without this rolled edge.
Model 75 (1968)
- A round base that has a relatively small footprint.
- The fork has a more rounded profile.
- The oval recess built into the fork will say ‘Anglepoise’.
- Spring caps were still often used for extra adjustability.
- Nylon components used throughout the linkage strip area.
- The side arms would have used a tube construction.
- The swivel joint into the shade would have an all-metal construction.
- The distinctive fluted shade was without a rolled edge, and was painted white inside.
- The top of the shade had a removable top, to enable maintaining the product and included a rocker switch.
Model 90 (1973)
- The base continued to have a small footprint, with a steel cover.
- The fork uses a bent steel strip and is held in place at the pivot point by a nut and bolt.
- Springs are without metal caps.
- Linkage strip is nylon.
- The back arm has a small nylon section at the top to fit into the centre joint.
- Side arms will have been made of a steel metal strip.
- The swivel joint at the top has a nylon section in the middle.
- The fluted shade has a push button switch at the top.
Apex 90 (1985)
- Has a relatively low profile base with a bigger footprint and a steel cover.
- The fork is offset and is made from a bent metal strip.
- Springs were often painted black.
- At the junction between the fork and the side arms a plastic adjuster wheel was used on each side.
- The tube has quite a large, square profile, and is slotted into the different plastic jointing components.
- Centre joint encloses the cable, and is held in place by a screw.
- The fluted shade was painted white inside.
- Push button switch on the top of the shade is held in place by a smooth metal nut.
Type 3 (2003)
- A solid steel 3 tier base was chrome plated.
- The die cast zinc fork had a vertical recessed lozenge for the logo plate in the front.
- The springs had specially designed adjuster caps to maximise the spring tension.
- All linkage strips are made of metal, and are held together throughout by some Hex nuts and bolts.
- All the arms are made from brass, polished and then chrome plated.
- The adjuster knobs are machined out of steel, plated and have the addition of an o ring for grip.
- The top arm has a special swaged detail where it changes from a square to a round section where it meets the bride.
- The bridle has a solid stainless steel section so it remains rigid.
- The aluminium shade has a smoothed double profile section with oval vents at the top and lozenge shaped vents at the top for extra cooling and is chrome plated.
- There is a round black rocker switch on top of the shade.
- There is also an inner reflector made of aluminium.
If you purchased your 90 Mini Mini lamp in the UK, it is supplied with a USB A to USB Micro B cable and mains adapter plug that can be plugged in to the wall.
If you purchased your 90 Mini Mini lamp in the US, it is supplied with a USB A to USB Micro B cable. The adapter plug is not included.
You can use third party USB A adapter plugs to power the lamp, as well as USB A power sources such as portable batteries and laptops.
The lamp has a USB Micro B input socket on the base.... Read more